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HAIR LOSS, SEX AND IMAGE STRESS by James Freeman, M.D. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (ADD). there are over 100,000 hairs on the average head. To understand what scientists now know-how hair thins and eventually dies out completely, it's necessary to first know how hair grows. Hair, a protein made from tiny cells lining a hole in the scalp called a follicle, goes through three phases during its lifetime: anagen , telogen and catagen. In the anagen phase, about 90 percent of the total scalp/hair population is actively growing at any one time. This growth cycle is followed by a telogen phase. During this period. 10 percent of the hair rests for three months, then falls out. When the new hair underneath pushes the old one from its longtime home in the scalp, it enters the catagen phase. Most doctors agree that losing 50 to 100 hairs a day is required for hair to continue replacing itself. It is now known that hair grows fastest in the summer, slowest in the winter, speeds up under heat and friction (massage), but slows down when exposed to cold. Hair grows the best between the ages of 15 to 30. But, hair growth begins to wind down sometime between the ages of 50 and 60. Thinning hair, where the hair withers in its follicle to show more scalp than when a person was younger, can begin at any age after puberty and can precede actual baldness, where the follicle atrophies stops producing hair all together-by as much as 10 years or more. What is the causes of post-pubescent thinning hair? In some people, problems with hormone - producing organs including the adrenals, pituitary, ovaries, testes and thyroid is the cause of thinning. Your diet is very important for proper hair growth. According to the AAD, inadequate protein can cause protein malnutrition, especially among some VEGETARIANS, people on crash diets that exclude protein, and those with severely abnormal eating habits. Hair sheds within two to three months as person's body tries to save protein by shifting the hair growth cycle into the resulting phase. Too much protein and fat can also cause problems. Scientists have found that when protein exceeds 15 percent to 20 percent of the daily diet, the body enters a "negative mineral balance", causing hair to fall out in much the same way as if it had too little protein. Disease can also be another cause. High fever, severe infecting, thyroid disease or even a severe case of the flu can cause hair to enter the resting phase as the body seeks to heal other areas. Cholesterol can build up in the follicle openings, causing clogs of hardened lipids that choke hair at the scalp line. In addition, medications including beta blockers, blood thinners and drugs used to treat gout, cancer chemotherapy, arthritis, depression, heart problems and high blood pressure can shut down hair growth all together. TREATMENTS, OLD AND NEW Even after your hair is lost, the root usually remain alive. This suggests the possibility of new growth. Cortisone tablets taken orally sometimes promote hair growth. Unfortunately, prolonged use can cause physical or mental side effects, and the new hair usually falls out when you discontinue the tablets. Other forms of cortisone are rubbed or injected into your scalp. Their effect is often temporary. Medical researchers in Asia believe that hair loss is caused mainly by insufficient blood supply to the scalp. The other possibility is excessive sebum in the scalp which causes pore clogging and malnutrition in the hair root( "sebaceous Gland Hypothesis", proposed by Dr. Yoshikata Inaba of The Inaba Aesthetic Surgery in Tokyo). The so-called 101 hair regrowth lotion is formulated to attack the problems. 101 became famous after it had won several international awards, among them, "gold medal" from 14th International Inventors Exposition in New York (June 4, 1991). According to Dr. Zhuang-Guang Zhao, the inventor, 101 promotes blood circulation by removing blood stasis in the scalp and dilating the blood capillaries, it also remove sebum in the scalp. Unlike other treatments, it has no side effects, the active compounds in this lotion are isolated from plants, According to Newsweek and New York Times reports (references at page 48), there is no questioning its popularity with the 3 million bald folks in Japan. Masashi Sada, a popular Japanese singer, said recently on the radio that the product worked wonders on his head. Millions of men and women in Asia reportedly have used 101 and 90 percent are said to have found it effective in hair regrowth and a significant reduction of hair loss. According to a spokesperson for the 101 products the improved formula called Fabao 101D will be introduced to USA. But will 101D work on American heads? since average American diets contain a lot more fat and protein than their counterparts in Asia. (Editor's note: a brochure can be obtained from PS Co., 2333 West. 13th St., Brooklyn, NY 11223). Another approach uses minoxidil. This drug was originally developed to treat high blood pressure and had the unanticipated side effect of stimulating hair growth, sometimes in unwanted areas. The hair produced is usually fuzzy, the treatment is expensive, and so far the results are varied (Editor's note: People should discuss side effects and possible adverse reactions from using Rogaine with their doctors). Hair transplantation is also an option. The dermatologist implants tiny plugs of skin, each containing about 10 hairs, into your scalp. The transplanted hairs falls out in about 3 weeks, but new hairs are soon produced. Up to four transplantation sessions, at 4-month intervals, may be needed. This treatment is very expensive. Perhaps the most promising studies come from genetic researchers at Beijing International Hair Regenerating and Nourishing Research Center(HRNR). For many years scientists there have searched for the genetic key that would unlock the cure for baldness. According to HRNR, the genetic therapy can work one or two ways. The scientists could make a chemical compound-suspended in a cream or lotion that is rubbed onto the scalp-which would target itself to the hair loss gene inside individual follicle cells. The compound would fit itself securely over the gene, nullifying any further power the troublemaker could have over hair growth-or the lack thereof. Another option would be to place a minuscule copy of a normal hair growth gene into a cream or lotion and rub it into target sites on the scalp. TIPS FOR PROPER HAIR CARE: Each year, Americans spends millions of dollars on hair-care products and treatments. Unfortunately, some of these efforts are too rough or done frequently. The result is hair damage rather hair care. Damaged hair stays damaged until it grows out and is cut off. This can take many months, because your hair grows only about 1/2 inch each month. Your hair requires gentle handling. Wet hair is especially fragile because it might become stretched. A natural bristle brush is preferred over a synthetic one because the synthetic material may cut the hair. Brush the hair gently from the scalp to disperse scalp oil over the hair. If you prefer a comb, use a wide-toothed comb to avoid injury to your hair. Certain hairstyles and treatments can cause breakage or root damage. Avoid excessively tight braiding, buns, or ponytails. do not roll your hair too tightly in curlers. Teasing and back combing should be done gently or not at all. To much exposure to sun, wind, or swimming-pool chemicals will dry out your hair and cause it to knot. The quality of your hair reflects in part the adequacy of your diet: regular, well-rounded meals are best for you and your hair. Consuming extra protein or amino acid preparations will not promote hair growth, As mentioned above, too much protein is bad for hair growth. Crash diets and eating disorders such as anorexia nervosa can damage hair dramatically. Various claims are made for the value of analysis of hair samples, but the process has no validity and can be considered one of the many scams aimed at appealing to people concerned about their health. If done gently, daily shampooing will not damage your hair. The amount of washing will depend on the type of your hair, the weather, your physical activity, and perhaps even your occupation. For proper washing, wet your hair completely with warm water. put shampoo on with your hand and massage gently, using your fingers instead of your nails as you work the lather outward from your scalp. Rinse thoroughly. use shampoos tailored to your hair type--oily, dry or normal. Protein shampoos do not penetrate your hair, but they do coat it, giving your hair more bulk. A protein shampoo acts as a shampoo and conditioner in one. Excessive flaking may require dandruff shampoos. Follow your shampoo with a cream rinse or conditioner. These products lubricate your hair between washings and help minimize damage from brushing or combing. Those containing protein ingredients may also thicken your hair temporarily. Permanent-waved, straightened, or dye hair needs low pH shampoos. Towel dry by patting gently. Whenever possible, let your hair dry naturally in the air. If a blower is necessary, use it on a low setting and leave your hair slightly damp. If you brush or comb your hair while it is wet, you pull out much more hair than you would by gently untangling it with your fingers and waiting until it is damp or dry before you carefully brush or comb it. A styling gel or mousse can give your hair more body or thickness. They do not necessarily damage your hair, but you may experience extra dryness, especially at the hair ends. Hair bleaches chemically alter the melanin granule in the middle layer of each hair strand. Despite careful treatment, persistent bleaching eventually damages even healthy, strong hair shafts, but it does not injure the roots from which future hair growth takes place. Hair dyes work more like paint by covering hair strands with color or by mixing with the melanin granules without altering them. Dyes come in temporary form, which eventually wash out, and semi-permanent and permanent forms, conduct a patch test to check for possible irritation. Permanent dyes require prior bleaching. Thus, the dying process does damage hair. Curling is safest if you twist your hair into pin curls overlight. Use of hot rollers or curling irons gives the best results for coarse hair, but they may damage strands or roots when used to excess. For safe curling of fine hair, let it air dry and wind it loosely around sponge rollers. Permanent waving is safe for healthy hair, but you may find it results in increased dryness and splitting. Straightening and permanent waving use the same chemical methods to change the properties of hair strands. The initial (waving) solution dissolves a chemical linkage in the hair. After the hair is arranged in its new, curly configuration, application of the second solution, the neutralizer, restores the linkage. Like other aggressive cosmetic treatments, permanent waving can be damaging when done to excess. References: 1.The New York Times, Tuesday, January 26, 1988 (The rest omitted)